My Life in the Sunshine
As the morning light awakens you from your wave induced deep slumber at Malibu Pier House, aka MPH, you will momentarily be deluded into believing that you’re in an alternate universe where the sun rises in the South and sets in the North. Eventually, you’ll reorient your internal compass with the realization that you’re not looking out at the ocean in a Westward direction but actually in a Southerly direction due to where MPH sits along the Santa Monica Bay.
A little later, when you head out for your morning session at First Point, you’ll bask in the the fact that you’ll be tracing the paddle strokes of Tom Blake–champion surfer, father of surf photography, and author of surfing’s first book–and Sam Reid who, nearly a century ago in September of 1926, are considered to be the first ever to surf in Malibu on their 10’ redwoods. In early 1927, Tom and Sam were joined by Charles “Chuck A Luck” Ehlers, Dilly Perrine, Spud Moorman and Cliff Tucker.